April 9th, what a glorious day for SUP

So I tried the new boards out today. They are the Surfer by Imagine. First off they are very stable and subsequently easy to balance. Cruising along on flat water is pretty easy. Where this board really shines is when you do yoga or meditation. It’s comfortable on your body and has a bungie for your oar. Surfing the board is a bit more challenging as the board is shorter than our other boards. The waves were a bit smaller today, so maybe with a bit more size these will perform better. I also got some great go pro footage and saw about 10 turtles. Awesome day so far.

via April 9th, what a glorious day for SUP.

Friday the 11th of January

So I haven’t written my new years resolution yet, I’m focused on just finishing goals. I think that if I just finish them off I will get time for doing it. It being my mission for this year. Of course like anything if you don’t make time for doing internal stuff like that you won’t fit it in. So from tomorrow I start my daily to do list again. Time to get back to old school planners. As much as I love my iPad, good old pen and paper planning always felt better somehow. Ok now I’m done with the life changing stuff, I thought I would chat about the best stuff that happened Thursday, yes I did some good work related (not paying), but good stuff on the new website and smart phone app. I will share links soon, but surfing my favorite beach break was really the highlight. Initially I thought that it was just going to be me but a few great friends joined and the session was off to a great start. The waves were heavy initially, it slowed down a bit but there were still some mackers coming in. Let me try my best to describe how they looked from my perspective. I’m sitting on my board looking eastward towards the first indicator of the next set to come. Outside of the bay lies a large underwater rock that causes waves to break way out. After passing the rock, the waves settle down and then reform just before hitting the sand banks where I’m sitting. So when I see a massive wave break outside I know that in about a minute or so a set is going to start rising up before me. At first the smaller waves block my view of what I know is coming. I use my board for leverage trying to peak over to see the wave behind. There it is, 10 feet plus of water coming at a vertical angle, I immediately scramble to decide which side of this leviathan has the best possibility to ride it. Of course riding a beach break wave likes this has many outcomes and most of them you can only figure out when you have already hurled yourself over the edge. So it’s right breaking wave, as the left wall has gotten longer and starts morphing into an aggressive warped mountain that looks like it just wants to crush anything in it’s path. The right has potential nut only barely. As always I’m infatuated with trying to ride the barrel. It’s always the most challenging, and conditions dependent thing you can do, but the feeling that it gives you….. I can’t really compare it to anything. I would say 8 out of 10 times I try to get barreled I fail, maybe even 9 out of 10 times. The one time you do get in there, the water surrounding you entirely, sometimes showing you an exit, other times showering you with foam or water droplets, for what seems like an eternity, then letting you out. The speed, the energy of the ocean, the fact that you can barely talk immediately after, and then after you just want to tell the world. My english is stumbling trying to describe it. So I maybe got 3 barrels, and then most everything else was a mixture of running down the line of the face for dear life or being pitched over my board trying to go for a wave later than I should. You see if you really want to get in the barrel you have to push that boundary of getting as deep as possible either as the lip of the wave goes over or even behind it. Only then do you have a chance of riding in the tube and that’s only if it lets you. I’m sure your bored to hell of this so I’ll move on.

Go and watch a new movie call Won’t Back Down. It’s inspiring and will make you want to never give up ever. No matter what they throw in your face, just keep on fighting. Ok time to sleep

1:19am.

Ok this is a process

So the first thing I can do to have a great day is to do something physical in the morning. For me it’s surfing or just some plain exercise. 20 minutes and you are great. Yoga, pushups, planking. Anybody got some great exercises? What are the top 10 things you can do to energize yourselves tomorrow morning.